Planning A No-Dig Vegetable Garden

A no-dig vegetable garden is an excellent option for many gardeners, especially for those who want to have an organic vegetable garden. It is probably based on traditional gardening methods but became popular in the mid-twentieth century when several books were published on the advantages of avoiding digging.

Raised bed of lettuce, tomatoes, 6 different types of basil, marigolds, zinnias, garlic chives, zucchini. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

It is not simply a question of saving your back - there are advantages from the point of view of your plants, too, to the extent that no-dig gardening has now developed into a whole method of agriculture sometimes known as permaculture.

Digging has been shown to be ineffective in areas that have thin topsoil, and therefore it can be assumed that it is not really beneficial in any kind of soil - it is simply that richer soils are better able to handle the damage done. For digging to work in agriculture over a long period, the soil has to be rested with fallow crops at regular intervals. Most gardeners do not do this in their gardens and the soil suffers.

One of the main advantages of having a no-dig vegetable garden is the preservation of the natural food web which exists in the soil. This includes all kinds of soil-based organisms from micro-organisms to worms. Between them, they produce nutrients necessary for plants as well as keeping off certain pests and diseases. If the soil is dug and turned, this delicate natural balance is disturbed, causing stress and destroying some elements of the food web.

Supporters of digging will point out that it allows you to remove the roots of various weeds. This is true, but at the same time it allows weed seeds that are buried in the soil to come to the surface and germinate, so the net result may not be in your favor. If you have a no dig vegetable garden you will simply need to remove any weeds as soon as you identify them, and they will not become established.

To construct a no-dig vegetable garden, you will need to introduce a thick layer of mulch onto the soil. This mulch should be made up of organic matter such as cardboard, newspaper, straw, sawdust etc. This will hold in moisture and prevent any deep rooted weeds from making it to the surface in the first season. However, it needs to be something that will rot so that your plants and their roots can break through it.

On top of that you will place a layer of compost or other nutritionally rich matter such as manure or leaf mold. If you are buying compost, be sure to buy organic.

If you are creating a new no-dig vegetable garden, you can dig before placing the mulch if you wish. If your garden is already established and you have perennials that you do not want to remove, simply place the mulch and compost around the existing plants.

Some no dig vegetable gardens are created as raised beds. This can be very effective. You will need something to bound the bed, such as wooden planks. Then place a layer of mulch followed by a layer of compost and repeat to the required depth.  Lower layers can be made up of compostable matter such as grass cuttings and food peelings rather than finished compost, if you wish. This type of no dig vegetable garden is known as 'lasagna' gardening because of the use of alternating layers. (See this excellent book for more on Lasagna Gardening.)

More No-Dig Gardening Resources:
   

A Review of the Steps to Successful Composting

The hot composting method (also known as fast or active composting) is the most common as it yields desired results relatively quickly.  It is also the best method to take care of unwanted weeds as it will destroy the seeds during the heat phase.

After you have picked a level site for your composting bin, you will need a good base for the bottom made of leaves and high-quality soil.  The leaves should be chopped or chipped so that no one piece is larger than two-three inches (this is a good rule of thumb for all materials added to the bin).

Materials in a compost bin. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Once your bin and base are in place you can start to add your green food (nitrogen-rich) and your brown food (carbon-rich).  The ratio that should be roughly followed is one part green for every two parts brown.

Monitor the pile every other day for moisture control and temperature.  During this time you need to rotate or turn the pile to get good air flow inside the pile and to help with odors. 

Once your pile is full or has finished the heat phase, let it cure.  The length of curing will depend on your intended use of the finished product.  To eliminate any larger pieces of organic matter that did not break down use a screen to sift them out.  But if you follow the rule of not putting in anything that is larger than three inches this should not happen too often.

A compost humus can be ready to use in as little as 4-6 weeks in a warm climate with a hot composting method and maintenance to the pile on a regular schedule.  If you are going to use the cold (or inactive) method of composting, it can take up to one year for usable compost to be ready.

Hopefully you've gained some useful tips to help you get started with composting! Be sure to stay tuned to this blog for more helpful compost and gardening tips in 2015!

Ongoing Care for Your Compost Pile

Unless you are using a cold composting method, your compost pile is going to need regular care and maintenance.  You need to monitor it for any foul odors, heat generation, and moisture levels.  You will need to rotate or turn the material on a regular basis.  You should know when to stop adding materials and let the process finish.  And the final step is to use a screen to separate any larger materials that did not fully break down.

Turning a large hot compost pile (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

If there is a bad smell coming from your compost pile turn the pile over more frequently to increase air circulation.  You should also add more brown food (leaves, straw/hay, or small twigs) and make sure the top layer of your pile is only brown food.

You will learn the trick of adding water to your pile to make it moist without making to wet with some trial and error.  Inevitably you will make the pile too wet at one point during the process.  If you do, try rotating the material to soak up any extra water and if that doesn’t work, add more brown food.

You can purchase a thermometer that is made especially for composting.  You want the pile to retain a certain temperature to work properly (105-140 degrees Fahrenheit) but if it exceeds 155 degrees, it is too hot.

Routine turning of your pile is necessary to add oxygen, cut-down on odors and to aid in the breaking-down process.  You should turn your pile every other day or at a minimum two times per week.

After the heat phase, the compost pile needs some time to cure and finish the decomposing process.  You can add red earthworms at this point to aid in the curing the humus.

Before you use your finished product, you should put the compost through a screen to catch any larger items that did not compost properly or enough. You can add those to your next compost pile to add beneficial organisms and help start the composting process.

What Not To Compost

There are many things you can use to make a good compost humus (which is what the final product is called).  There are also quite a few items that should never go into your compost bin.  Listed below are just some of the materials you should not try to compost, and why it is not a good idea.

Ashes from charcoal should not be added to your compost, although you can add very small amounts of ashes from a fire that was made with untreated wood.  It is not a good idea to add a lot though because it can change the composition and make it too alkaline.

Don't add cat litter to your compost! (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Do not add any kind of droppings from an animal that is not a vegetarian.  Animals that pass the compost inspection include horses, cows, rabbits, and goats.  You can even add droppings from hamster or other indoor pets.  But stay away from bird, dog, and cat droppings (including cat litter).  They all can contain harmful organisms - plus they will make your compost smell bad.

Any type of animal waste such as leftover meat, oil, bones, or fish waste are off-limits. They all can cause your pile to smell badly and can attract unwanted pests.

Milk, yogurt, cheese, or any other milk product should be added with caution.  They all will attract animals and pests.  If you do decide to add them, do so in small amounts and cover them with plenty of brown materials afterwards.

You can add weeds, but you should take care to ensure your composting is functioning properly.  If your compost is not generating enough heat the roots may not be destroyed and the weeds may grow again once you spread your compost.  You can dry your weeds on a sidewalk or on some concrete in the sun before adding to the pile as an added precaution to make sure they do not survive.

These are just a few items you should not compost - or should use caution when composting. Following these tips will minimize composting problems, and help make sure your composting efforts are a success!

Composting Precautions To Consider

There are living creatures that you want in your compost bin such as microbes and red earthworms, and then there are the creatures you want to stay away like raccoons, rodents, and bears.  A compost bin can be very appealing to an animal who smells easy access to food.  As a rule, you should never put animal products into compost (left over meat and bones, or dairy). Not only do they not make for good composting they will be a magnet to wild animals.  Following are a few more tips to help keep your compost bin free from pests of all sizes.

Compost Bin with Lid (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

An odor-free compost bin is less likely to attract bears or any other unwanted animal pests.  You can achieve this by rotating or turning the compost pile at least once per week, and making sure you have a good mixture of green and brown materials.  Another precaution that should be taken is to have a bin with a cover, whether it is commercially made or one you make yourself.

Another thing you can do is to put brown food such as leaves or lawn clippings on top of the green food (food scraps and other kitchen waste).  You can also purchase lime at your local nursery or hardware store to sprinkle on the top of your composting materials to increase the rate at which everything decomposes.

The location of your compost heap should not be near the edge of your property - especially if you live near a forest or park area.  This makes it very easy for animals to help themselves without being exposed by walking through your backyard.

If bears or raccoons are a big concern in your community you may want to look into a neighborhood compost pile.  In addition to making composting more accessible to a larger group of people, you can invest in an electric or barbed wire fence to ensure no unwanted animals come looking for a free lunch.

Materials You Need to Start Composting

Now that you have decided that you want to compost, there are a few items that you will need to get started.  Most of these items are available in your own yard and require a small amount of planning ahead of time.

After you pick a location for your compost bin or pile (ensure it is in an easily accessible location) you may want to start with approximately four inches of leaves as a base.  If you are able to chip the leaves prior it will make things progress and breakdown faster but it is not a requirement.  The quantity of leaves you will need to make a four-inch deep base will vary depending on the size of the bin you have chosen.

Yard waste composting bin (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Your next layer should be about one inch of high-quality soil.  If you cannot find this in your own garden a small bag of organic soil purchased from your local nursery will work fine. 

Then start layering the food for the microbes to eat.  There are two categories of food you are going to need brown (yard waste or dry items such as straw) and green (food scraps, grass clippings, and other organic waste).  A common ratio is two parts brown for every part of green, but it doesn't have to be terribly exact.

You are going to need a spade or heavy-duty pitch fork to turn or rotate the compost at least once per week.  If there is a dry spell you will need a means of adding water (a hose) to keep the pile moist.

With such simple materials and start-up instructions, anyone can start their own compost pile in under a day.  If you choose to not use a bin, consider buying some wire mesh to contain the pile, it can be wrapped around the base of the pile in a circular shape. You may also create a square or rectangular bin by stacking logs or pieces of wood or bamboo to create the sides - or build a bin from wood planks if you want something more durable and enclosed.

Your compost can be ready to use anywhere from four months up to one year, depending on the climate and weather conditions.

The Best Place for your Composting Bin

When choosing a location for your compost, the most common location for a compost pile or bin is in close proximity to your kitchen and/or garden.  You want it in a convenient location to make it easy and second nature to bring your food scraps or garden waste to the composter.  And if you have a large yard, the yard waste can get quite heavy and you don’t want transporting the heavy material to be a deterrent to composting.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are other considerations that need to be taken into account when choosing a composting site.  Keeping all the below suggestions in mind, you also want to make sure that it is in an area that children or animals will not disturb or get into the compost bin.

The ground should be level and not prone to collecting excessive water (it needs good drainage).  Your compost pile needs to stay moist but you do not want too much water or it will not work properly.  In addition to level ground, make sure you can easily access the area with a wheelbarrow to transport your finished compost.

A shady location is best, as if the compost pile gets too much sunlight it will get too hot and dry out.  Again, the pile needs to stay moist and overheating it with external sources will not help.

A water source should be close by – you can reach the area with your garden hose or easily carry enough water to moisten the pile if it becomes too dry.  Remember you just want to moisten the pile with a spray of water not drench it.

If you are beginning with a one bin system, you may want to leave enough room for a second bin down the road.  By having two bins side-by-side, you can easily rotate or turn the pile by moving material from one bin to the next.

Who Can Benefit From Composting?

As there are many uses for compost, you will find people with different interests and occupations utilizing this environmentally friendly resource.

A homeowner can create a compost bin or pile to reduce the amount of trash they are throwing away.  As an added benefit they are creating a fertilizer for their house plants or garden plot.  Since compost bins require green food (kitchen scraps, grass clippings) and brown food (leaves, straw, shredded brown paper, etc.) you can collect your grass clippings and add them to your bin too.

Home-made compost pile. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

On a farm, crops can produce a lot of waste.  A farmer can use crops that are not consumable (ground cover, etc.) and add them to a compost bin along with manure from any livestock they may keep.  Once the compost matures and is ready, the farmer can use the material for added nutrients in the soil, to build up low spots in his field, and to keep the soil healthy. You can even use mature compost as mulch to help the soil retain water and prevent weeds.

A professional landscaper can create compost material for clients that want only natural or organic materials used on their lawn or flower beds.  This can be a low-cost material for a landscaper to utilize providing his clients with Earth-friendly options with a low overhead cost.

If you like the idea of composting but do not have the space or time to create a compost pile of your own, check with your city or municipality’s recycling center.  Some will accept your yard waste and clippings for a city compost heap.  This material will then be used throughout the city’s parks and gardens.  In certain centers they may let the residents utilize the mature compost for their own needs too.

Schools may also utilize compost to teach the students the process of decomposition and to teach children what we can do to help our planet.  This is in addition to the cost savings for the school in up keeping the grounds and gardens. Some schools also plant community gardens as a learning tool for the students, and also to create green spaces and support the local community.

What Is Composting?

Composting is a topic that many new gardeners have questions about, and often may shy away from as they are worried about smells or other common misconceptions about compost. But composting is actually an easy way to make your gardening efforts more sustainable, so this month we're starting a short series on composting. This week we're starting off with a basic introduction to composting - what it is, and how it works.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In basic terms, composting is recycling your kitchen waste and lawn trimmings and turning them into a valuable resource for your garden or houseplants.  This is done by speeding up the process that the materials you use to compost would naturally go through on their own – decomposition.

Compost is not soil.  It is a common misconception that the end-result of composting is the dirt that you find in the ground.  It is actually a richer substance that acts as a fertilizer (enriching the soil) to grow hardier and healthier plants.

Before you begin composting there are choices to be made – what type of container and style suits your project, what you will be putting into your compost bin, and the location of your bin.  But regardless of these decisions, how you convert your waste into compost happens the same way.  It is a breakdown of waste materials as they are digested by microbes (bacteria and fungi).

The microbes are the workers of the composting equation.  They need air, water, and food to do their job and it is up to you to supply it to them in the right amounts.  If you have heard that having a compost bin or pile creates a foul odor it is most likely the result of not enough air circulating throughout the waste material.  Without air, the material will still break down but it will be done by anaerobic microbes (organisms that do not need oxygen) as opposed to aerobic (ones that need oxygen).  So if you do have an unpleasant smell coming from your compost bin or pile, you can rotate the material to let in more air, or add a substance to create more room for the air to circulate.  Wood chips or hay and straw are good for this.

Composting is good for both the environment and for your garden – it eliminates the amount of waste you throw away and enriches the soil your plants grow in.

Be sure to check back next week when we'll cover the next topic in our composting series!

Compost Smells, & Other Composting Myths

Composting is a natural and simple process and yet it has been complicated by machines, fallacies, misinformation, myths, and misunderstandings. Some of these misinformed facts have been passed around so many times that the general perception has become accepted fact. An example would be the idea that all compost smells bad. But before we go into that, let’s discuss some other composting myths first.

Myth: Composting requires a lot of work

Natural decomposition of a compost pile. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Truth: Composting is a natural process which involves the elements of nature doing the majority of the job for you. All you need is to gather all the materials, lay it on, and let nature do her job. Composting is a low maintenance activity as well. You only need to turn the compost pile every once in a while to keep the air flowing to quicken the decomposition process and that’s it. (You really don't even have to do this - it just speeds up the process.) You practically sit and wait for the the compost to finish.

Myth: Composting is limited to farms and wide open spaces

Truth: On the contrary, people living in urban areas who have even a very small space can create their own composting bin from a trash can. How much space would that take up? If you don't want to build your own, there are also many small-sized compost tumblers available for purchase at farm stores and over the internet. Also, there is another technique which you can use, called vermicomposting, which involves the use of red worms in a contained bin where you feed them table scraps. You can even do this indoors!

Myth: Composting needs precise measurements

Truth: Even though composting ideally would be best achieved with the right combination of greens and browns elements, having the exact measurements is not that necessary. Estimates work just fine. And those neatly piled up layers of composting piles you see in commercials, books, pamphlets and brochures of composting products - those are all for show. You don’t need to copy those, composting works the same way even if you pile them up haphazardly.

Myth: You need specially formulated chemicals as starters or activators

Truth: Despite the claims of commercially available products that applying them to the compost pile will speed up the process of decomposition, buying them is not really necessary. It is good practice to just throw in some finished compost (if you have it) into the newly formed compost pile and that itself will serve as the activator to get things started. But there’s no need to buy that expensive stuff.

Myth: Adding yeast will boost the compost’s performance

Truth: This is not true at all. What you’re doing is just wasting your money by adding yeast to the compost pile. Yeast does not do anything to the compost pile and neither does it affect the performance or quality of the compost.

Garden materials in a compost bin. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Myth: Animals are attracted to compost piles

Truth: This is true to some degree. Composting piles do attract the occasional cat, dog or raccoon - especially if you have a totally open pile that is not protected or enclosed. Small critters will likely go for open compost piles and for piles that have kitchen scraps like meat, fat, dairy products, bones and pet manure added to them. Therefore, it is usually best to avoid adding these items to the compost pile - especially if you live in an urban area - and these can also cause your compost pile to smell - which brings us to our final myth.

Myth: Compost smells bad

Truth: Compost should not have a bad smell. If you find bad smelling compost, then the maker did a poor job picking the materials for the compost pile. If your compost includes only green and brown items and vegetable matter, is properly exposed to air, and is not kept too wet, it should have only a mild earthy smell.

Hopefully clearing up these myths will help you in your decision to start a compost pile. It will be the best thing you ever did for your garden!

The Cost of Growing Your Own Veggies - Part 1

There are many reasons to grow your own vegetables. You get to eat food that hasn't been tainted with chemicals and you feel great satisfaction that you're able to nurture life from a mere seed in the earth to a fresh vegetable on your table.   Besides that, it's just fun (most of the time) to work in the garden in the fresh air, with maybe some family members right there alongside you.  But one of the biggest reason people give for wanting to start their own garden is that it will save on their grocery bills. But does it really?

Yes and no. It depends on how you go about it and how long you've been doing it. Let me explain.

There are initial costs involved in setting up your plot(s). If you're going to do containers or some sort of raised beds, there's the cost of the materials. This should be a cost that doesn't occur frequently unless you use something that's not durable and has to be replaced often.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

How to save: Use lumber you've been storing to build the beds or old containers scavenged from friends and neighbors. Know anyone who's repurposing? Fences or decks being torn down might give you the lumber you need. You can also look for damaged and discounted boards at the lumberyard. Just be sure that you're using untreated lumber, as treated wood contains chemicals that can leach into your garden and affect the health of your plants - and ultimately your family.

Then there is the cost of soil and fertilizer to fill up your plots. If you're working with depleted soil or deadpan, more amendments will be necessary. This is usually an up-front cost, but you might have to top off your beds every year with more soil.

How to save: Don't buy bag after bag from the home improvement store unless they're having a good sale. Buy in bulk from a garden center or landscaping firm. You can save on delivery if you borrow a truck and go pick it up yourself.

Know that fertilizer is important to any garden plant. Fertilizer gives them the nutrients they need for healthy production. Compost enriches the soil and that's why it's nicknamed "black gold" by many gardeners.

How to save: Make your own compost. It can be as simple as using an old plastic garbage can and drilling some holes into it, then throwing your kitchen scraps (non-meat), garden waste, old leaves, and grass clippings into it. Using your own homemade compost can mean better soil which means stronger, healthier plants and better vegetable yield. Make a fertilizer from compost tea and use that plus other home remedies instead of buying expensive bagged or bottled products. (Click the "compost" tag below this post for an extensive list of how-to articles on composting.)

Here you have just some of costs associated with having a vegetable garden, plus some tips on how to make these costs less of a strain on your wallet.

Next week, check back for Part 2, and learn how you can save on tools, plants, and watering costs for your garden.

Using Coffee Grounds for Organic Gardening

While some people would declare coffee to be the staff of life and will enjoy several cups of their favorite brew throughout the day, there really is more to coffee than just drinking it. It turns out coffee can actually play a part in organic gardening. So not only can you drink it, but you can use the coffee grounds to make your garden soil and plants happy.

Brewed coffee is acidic, but the grounds produced from the brew are not. The brewing process removes the acid and they become neutral and nitrogen-rich. This is good news and lends itself to practical applications in your garden.

Coffee grounds. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Probably the easiest thing to do with your coffee grounds is to add them to your compost pile. They are considered a "green" material just like vegetable peelings and grass clippings. Being rich in nitrogen means they will help heat up your compost and aid in a faster decomposing time. As with any composting, brown materials such as dry leaves should be included in your bin as well.

Another way to use your grounds is to work them well into the soil before you plant your garden. Or consider lightly sprinkling them around your garden before a good watering as if they were a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer.

Consider making a compost tea with the remains. Try grounds and water for a weak mix and let it heat up. Strain it and spray on the plant leaves. You might want to do a test run first to make sure it's not too strong. Otherwise, you can make a full-blown tea with other compost material too and aerate the mixture with a pump and bubblers before straining and spraying it.

Some people like to spread coffee grounds around their acid-loving plants, but since the coffee's acid was depleted in the brewing process, it may not really give extra help to these plants. There are those who swear by it though.

If crawling pests are a problem, try spreading grounds and crushed egg shells around plants in an effort to deter pests such as slugs.

A handful of healthy worms in coffee compost (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Feed the worms, they like coffee too! If you have a worm bin you can feed it to them in small doses mixed in with your other kitchen scraps. If you don't have a worm bin, working them into your compost pile or directly into your soil will benefit the wrigglers who will, in turn, benefit your soil.

You can keep a container in the kitchen for your grounds after you brew your coffee and then dump them all into your compost bin at the end of the week. Alternatively, you can get larger quantities by visiting your local coffee shops and asking for their grounds. Consider making arrangements to pick up their waste on a specific day each week and they'll keep you "grounded".  Do watch your ratio though, as it should not be more than 20-25% of your total compost material.

The next time you have coffee, save the remains for the benefit of your garden. Put them in your compost pile, feed the worms, work into the soil, or use in a tea, and watch your plants thrive!

4 Common Composting Mistakes

It's summer and my compost is in full-swing! Is yours? Organic gardeners know that compost is good for your garden because it adds vital nutrients to the soil, thus helping build disease-resistant soil and plants that thrive. However, instead of buying bags of pre-made compost every year at the gardening store, you might want to make your own. It's much more economical, and helps your garden be more sustainable - the waste from last year's garden can feed this year's.

Making your own compost is not hard, especially if you know ahead of time what the common composting mistakes are and avoid them.

1.  Adding the wrong thing.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are lots of things you can add to your bin that will break down into wonderful "black gold", but there are some you should avoid for a variety of reasons. Some will attract critters or won't decompose at a decent speed. Large tree branches or chunks of wood are better left out of the pile. The same goes for treated wood. You should also avoid adding meat, bones, animal remains, animal feces, fatty foods from your table, pernicious weeds or weeds with seed heads.

2. Not having an appropriate mix ratio.

Creating your compost pile doesn't have to be an exact science, but you should have your green waste and brown waste ratios in the ballpark. A good rule of thumb is layering brown, then soil, green, then soil, and repeat. If you'd like to do it in a casual manner - whenever you take out a load of vegetable scraps, throw some of your shredded paper or dead leaves on top and then a shovel-full of dirt.

3. Failing to break up big items or dead leaves.

Your compost pile needs to breathe. When you add dead leaves, they tend to mat down making for a dense pile that's especially hard to turn. Mulch them with your lawnmower or with your weed eater first and then add. Also, the bigger the item, the longer it takes for it to decompose. Clip your big stuff down to size. This also makes it easier to turn everything.

(Photo credit: normanack)

4. Not managing your compost.

Of course you can throw the ingredients into the bin and do nothing. Eventually it will break down into some semblance of what you want, but it will take a lot longer. Make a point of watering the mix when it's dry, to the point of just barely damp, and turn it often. The more you turn it, the faster it heats up and the faster it decomposes.

Making your own compost is not hard once you get started. Start collecting your acceptable kitchen scraps, rake up and shred your dead leaves lawn clippings, and start layering. Manage your compost by keeping it damp and turning it often and you'll be amazed at what you end up with! Plus your garden will thank you - and so will your pocketbook.

Compost Tumblers Make It Easy to Manage Your Compost:
     

Answers to Your Organic Gardening Questions

Whether you've just made the decision to garden organically or you've been at it a little while, you no doubt have questions. Organic gardening does require a little more effort, but the end results will be worth it. The following are popular questions often asked by new organic gardeners, and their answers:

1. What is organic gardening?

There are many definitions, depending on who you ask, but boiled down it means growing plants without the help of synthetics - synthetic herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers.

2. Why should I plant a cover crop?

Cover crops are also thought of as green manure; that's because when they're finished, they can be tilled into the soil, like compost, and will enrich the soil with nitrogen.

Planting a cover crop may be better than leaving a garden plot empty not just because of the green manure outcome, but also because a cover crop helps keep the topsoil from blowing away in the wind. In addition, you can eat some of the products of these crops, think peas or beans, and also the roots help break up hard-packed soil.

3. What are the greens and browns I need in my compost bin?

 (Photo credit: Joi)

Greens and browns are not really referring to the color of the waste you put in your compost bin. Greens refer to nitrogens and include items such as grass clippings, vegetable peelings, manure. Browns are higher in carbon and mulch, leaves and small twigs are classified as browns.

One way you can tell the difference is to think about whether the item will start to stink after a few days sitting by itself. If so, it's a green.

4. How do I get rid of aphids on my tomato plants?

Make up a spray, either Tomato Leaf spray or Oil and Soap spray, and apply it to both sides of the affected leaves. You can find recipes for these sprays by doing an Internet search. You'll notice they use common household ingredients. Otherwise, you can buy commercial products that have organic ingredients.

5. Can I get rid of weeds organically?

Yes you can. The most obvious method is pulling the weeds out by the roots. If that option does not appeal to you, then try household vinegar in a spray bottle, being careful not to get it on your plants or grass. Additional applications may be necessary. Other options are to pour boiling water on the weeds or burn them with a wand made for that purpose.

6. So why are worms a good thing to have in my soil?

Worms produce castings that are sometimes called "black gold". To capitalize on these little wigglers, you can set them up in worm bins and feed them your organic waste. What comes out the other end is a nutrient-rich addition that will build up your soil.

No doubt, starting an organic garden will mean you have questions. Finding ways to assist Mother Nature naturally can give you the greatest reward - a healthy garden with beautiful plants and good-for-you vegetables!

What You Should Know About Organic Farming

When did farming become more than just farming? Now there's farming and then there's organic farming. But what is it that makes organic farming a better form of farming than anything else? Here's what you need to know about organic farming to understand the benefits you are receiving from these crops.

1. Organic farming is a holistic approach to farming. Organic farmers use ecologically-balanced agricultural principles to control pests, tend to the soil, and manage crop rotation. Simply put, it lets nature take its course.

2. Organic farms include everything from vegetables to grains, to meat, dairy, eggs, and even cotton. To be considered organic they must remain as close to their natural state as possible without the use of synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. And when raising animals, they do not use synthetic growth hormones or antibiotics on their livestock. The animals eat only organic feed and in some cases, are allowed to roam outdoors.

A USDA map of the United States showing the number of organic farms per state in 2007. 0–100 organic farms 101–200 organic farms 201–500 organic farms 500+ organic farms. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

3. When organic farming began being monitored and tracked in 1994, there were 2500-3000 certified organic farms in the United States. Today there are more than 10,000 certified organic farms in the United States which provide 2% of the total food supply.

4. The basis of a good organic farm is the soil. It must begin with the right mix of soil that leads to healthy crops and animals. This reduces incidence of disease, and makes the farm more productive overall.

5. To create this productive soil, farmers need three basic things.

* Compost. This is organic materials that are decaying such as yard trimmings (wood chips, grass, and leaves), food waste (coffee grounds, tea bags and fruits and vegetables), and manure. Using compost allows beneficial bacteria and fungi to grow which creates a nutrient-rich moist soil.

* Green manures and cover crops. Cover crops are plants grown specifically to benefit the crops and are used to help protect the soils surface from water and wind, maintain soil structure, and maintain the healthy organic matter in the soil. Green manure is a cover crop that is grown and tilled in to the soil to add nutrients back into the soil. Cover crops also keep weeds at bay and to distract pests. They constitute a natural fertilizer/pesticide.

* Crop rotation. This is done by using different fields for different things each year. So one year a field could be used to grow pumpkins and the next field be used to graze sheep. The next year these fields would be switched. This way the nutrients are not depleted in one field, and it also minimizes the buildup of pests and diseases common to a specific crop.

Pig farming, Stancombe Down. Part of Sheepdrove, a large organic farm. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

6. Livestock is handled with the same level of care. They often may live in habitats similar to their natural habitat, and receive humane treatment. They don't receive hormones that promote growth and they don't receive antibiotics for any reason. They do receive vaccinations, though, as preventative care. Their diet consists of 100% organic food.

Organic farming really goes back to the roots of farming before intensive mass production was encouraged and expected from farmers in order for them to succeed. It's the way our food should be grown so we don't have to worry about pesticide poisoning or the alteration of our hormones due to the hormones that are fed to animals.

Clearly it's also becoming much more common and easier to find organic foods, even in your local supermarket. The price tag might be a bit higher for these organic foods, but it's worth it - not just for your health, but for the health of the farmers who grow the food, the planet, and future generations to come.

Feeding Your Spring Garden Plants

The best time to start feeding your garden is in spring. At this time of the year the ground is still moist from the winter and early spring rains. As the ground warms up with the warmer spring weather you get ideal growing conditions in your garden.

This is a crucial time for growth in the garden and you will need to ensure that your plants have the necessary nutrients to benefit from this period.

The small feeder roots that will be developing will seek the nutrients that you need to supply them. By choosing the correct foods for your plants they will have better foliage, they will be stronger plants and will also have more abundant flowering and fruiting.

Rich compost fertilizer for soil. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are three key factors that are needed in a balanced plant food, and they are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

A plentiful supply of nitrogen will ensure that your plants have healthy foliage. Phosphorus improves the plants root health, and potassium will encourage the plant to bloom and fruit.

As you can see they are all needed for the overall health of the plants and you should always check on the packaging of the fertilizer to see whether the chemical analysis is suitable. Be sure to ONLY choose naturally sourced, organic fertilizers, and the more balanced they are, the better.

These fertilizers usually come in three forms - controlled release, liquid and soluble.

Controlled release formulations have the nutrients inside a semi-permeable membrane that allows the nutrients to be released into the soil in a controlled manner once it reacts with the soil moisture and temperature. One application can last months and it is ideal for containers and indoor plants and established plants and trees.

Liquid formulations are similar to the soluble ones but they have been mixed with water and can be sprayed on the plants leaves for rapid response. (Compost tea may also be used in this manner - be sure to dilute it with water first so it won't burn the leaves, and apply in the early morning or evening so the sun won't cause leaf burns.) Fish emulsion is also a good natural liquid fertilizer.

Soluble formulations are applied dry and dissolve once the area receives water, which will dissolve the salts and make the nutrients available for the roots of the plant. Blood meal is a good example of a nitrogen-based organic fertilizer that is soluble.

All applications have their benefits and you need to decide which is best for the plants you are feeding. Just make sure to choose organic, naturally based fertilizers, and ideally you want a good balance of all nutrients (such as compost), although this can depend on your soil composition and what nutrients it needs most, so you will want to test your soil first before applying any fertilizer.

Video: An Experiment in Backyard Sustainability

As Scott reminds us in this video, we are meant to live in close connection with the earth, and with our food. Many of us have lost these connections over the past 50 years or so, and maybe this is part of the reason so many of us feel so unsatisfied at some level.... Connections with each other and the world around us are some of the richest experiences we can have in life!

So what can you do to rebuild these connections with your environment, even if you don't even own your own home? Scott is actually a renter himself in this video, and he shows you just what is possible in sustainable gardening - even if done with an annual focus, rather than the long-term view of a permaculture system. It's all about balance, and Scott discusses in this video how to achieve this balance in your garden.

Check out this interview for ideas, inspiration, and motivation - and see how easy it can be to grow your own sustainable garden in your backyard!

An Experiment in Back Yard Sustainability
Peak Moment 51: Tour Scott McGuire's "White Sage Gardens" in the back yard of his rental home -- a demonstration site for suburban sustainability. He ponders...

Organic Vs. Sustainable Gardening: What Is the Difference?

We talk a lot about sustainable gardening here, but we also talk about organic gardening, and although they may have some similarities, organic gardening and sustainable gardening really aren't the same thing. We've had a couple of questions from our readers on this subject, so today I'm going to hopefully clear up some of the confusion!

First of all, let's define the two terms.

 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Organic gardening means gardening without the use of chemical pesticides, fertilizers or other chemical inputs. Fertilizers can be compost, manure, purchased organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, seaweed, or many other inputs made of organic matter. Organic means of pest control are also used, from physical methods (removing pests by hand, barrier methods, etc.), to purchasing or making natural insecticides to apply to the plants. If we move up to organic farming (on a larger scale than just gardening, and usually the produce is for sale to the public), organic certification also comes into play. Foods sold with the "organic" label are required to meet certain standards regarding what substances are used to grow, package, and preserve them.

Sustainable gardening on the other hand, means growing food sustainably - both with regards to the surrounding environment, and the process as a whole. Obviously growing food with chemicals is NOT sustainable. Not only does it pollute the air, soil, and water, but it also destroys valuable nutrients and microbial activity in the soil, meaning healthy plants cannot grow there without the use of more and more chemicals. Chemical gardening and farming basically interrupts the natural ecosystem that keeps everything (from growth to pests to disease) in balance, creating a cycle where progressively more chemicals must be used to keep your garden growing and producing. Obviously this is the antithesis of sustainability. But there is more to sustainable gardening than just avoiding the use of chemicals - otherwise it would just be organic gardening.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Sustainable gardening in theory means that your entire ecosystem works together as a natural and holistic system, without requiring any outside inputs. Yes, this means you would not purchase any fertilizers or pest control methods - even those made of natural and organic ingredients. It means you nurture your soil first of all, and help it naturally become the best soil it can be. It means that you would use only those items in your garden that you could make yourself, from existing components - such as compost from garden waste and kitchen leftovers, and animal waste only if your own animals produced it. It means that you would use techniques such as companion planting and crop rotation, plus encouragement of beneficial bugs, to control pests and disease, instead of purchasing natural pesticides. Sustainable gardening means utilizing the natural tendencies of plants and their interactions with their environment to grow your garden. This is a step beyond just "going organic".

Obviously this isn't always the easiest thing to do! It may be easier if you actually have a small farm, and not just a garden, so that you can use things like animal bedding and manures in your composting efforts, and allow your animals to help keep the land healthy, as in the example of Polyface Farms. But even if you don't have a farm, you can still incorporate some sustainable gardening techniques into your garden. When planning your garden this year, draw up an actual garden plan, or use some of the available garden planning software, so that you can start a defined cycle of crop rotation. Learn about companion planting, and how you can draw beneficial bugs to your garden that will feed on pests you have commonly noticed in your garden. Choose plants for your garden that are native to your area, or at least grow well in your conditions - e.g. low water, clay soils, whatever your case may be. And of course, if you haven't already, start composting!

This year, try to go beyond just organic in your garden, and be sustainable. Check out our Sustainable Gardening web page for some helpful resources, and the articles below may also give you some good tips on these topics:

http://nhlsustainablegardening.blogspot.com/2013/02/using-organic-vegetable-garden-planner.html
http://nhlsustainablegardening.blogspot.com/2013/01/video-crop-rotation-planning-tool.html
http://nhlsustainablegardening.blogspot.com/2013/06/pest-control-tips-for-organic-gardeners.html
http://nhlsustainablegardening.blogspot.com/2012/10/composting-tips-for-organic-gardening.html
http://nhlsustainablegardening.blogspot.com/2012/02/video-helpful-composting-tips.html

Dealing With Problems In Your Worm Farm

Worm farming is a great way to naturally compost waste and other discarded materials.  As a result, nutrient rich soil is produced and can be used in flower beds, crops, and gardens.  Regardless of all the reading and research one does, issues may arise and can cause some concern. 

Here are a few of the commonly reported questions and issues with worm farms - and how to deal with them. 

Smell

The inside of a worm composting bin, after the worms have eaten many kitchen scraps. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

It is often thought that a smelly worm farm is normal.  In fact, it is not.  If worms are kept in an appropriate environment, they will not smell.  If the farm has an odor, the most likely cause is overfeeding. 

Material to be composted is placed on the top layer of soil for the worms to consume.  If too much is given to the worms, it can begin to rot causing a build up of bacteria within the walls of the worm farm.  This is the cause of the smell. 

To remedy the situation, simply discontinue feeding of the worms until any uneaten material is gone.  The soil should also be stirred for aeration and to allow the worms to move more freely.

Bugs and Other Pests

Using a container with a tight lid can help prevent many pests from infesting the worm farm but some are sneaky enough to make it in regardless.  Small vinegar flies are often a complaint among worm farmers.  This type of fly is of no harm to the worm farm but typically is a result of overfeeding.  Large flies appear when there is an abundance of food. 

Ants are also a common issue.  If ants are seen in the worm farm, the chances are pretty good that the soil is too dry.  Adding water to the soil to increase the moisture can help eliminate ants.  If using a worm farm that stands on legs, simply apply some petroleum jelly to the legs to prevent the ants from being able to climb up. 

Maggots can be found in worm farms where meat is offered to the worms.  The best scenario is to eliminate meat from the diet altogether.  If maggots have made their way into the worm farm, they can be eliminated by placing a milk soaked piece of bread into the farm; the maggots will be drawn to it and can simply be removed. 

Worms Leave the Farm

This topic leaves it up to the worm farmer to figure out what the problem is and fix it.  If a worm is leaving, he is unhappy with his environment and is in search of a more suitable one.  Worms will escape for reasons such as the soil being too dry or there isn't enough food.  On the other hand, soil that is too wet could also be affecting the worms, causing them to want to leave. 

Worm-farm (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The source of the problem should either be eliminated or fixed.  If the soil is too dry, fresh water should be added to the farm.  If it is too wet, the excess should be drained and new bedding should replace the old.  Locate the cause of the excess moisture and eliminate it. 

Ensure that the worms are getting enough food and the farm is in a location where the temperature will remain constant. 

Feeding

There may be some confusion on what to feed worms.  Appropriate foods to feed include fruits, vegetables, egg shells, greens, tea bags and coffee grounds and filters.  Non-food items can also be fed to the worms and include soaked cardboard, paper products, cotton rags, leaves, dirt and hair. 

More important are the items that should not be fed.  Dairy products, meat, citrus, onions and garden waste that has been treated with chemicals are all things to avoid in a worm farm.

These are just a few of the common topics when it comes to worm farming.  Although they are pretty easy to care for, it is important to realize the reason for some of the changes or issues noticed within the worm farm.  Problems should be corrected early to prevent the loss of the worms. 

Providing a proper environment, correct food, appropriate moisture level and temperature will help ensure a supply of happy and healthy worms.