Showing posts with label fall garden tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fall garden tips. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Grow More by Setting Vegetable Gardening Goals

Have you ever stopped to think about your vegetable gardening goals? If you are like many gardeners, you may find your main motivation is simply to get outside and reconnect with nature by digging in the dirt. You may also enjoy gardening as a way to squeeze more physical activity into an otherwise hectic schedule. Without question, growing a vegetable garden is a very relaxing way to accomplish these goals.

A sense of personal satisfaction and better overall health are admirable and worthwhile objectives on their own. However, if you dig a little deeper you may find you have a number of other goals for your vegetable garden. If you find you are short on gardening space, clearly defining these goals before you begin growing will make it a lot easier to achieve them.

For example, if you want to reduce your monthly grocery bill throughout the year by preserving part of your harvest, you’ll need to figure out how much you can actually grow in the space you have available. Even if you just want to grow enough so your family can enjoy fresh produce during the warmer months, you’ll still need to figure out what you want to grow and how to make it work within your personal space and time constraints.

Take Stock of Your Personal Resources 

Peter Cundall's vegetable patch, from the ABC ...
Time and space may prevent you having a garden this big. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
In most cases, the amount your garden can produce will be defined by the amount of resources you can devote to it. Therefore, you’ll want to ask yourself the following questions:

1. How much time do you have to work in your garden?
2. How much space do you have available to plant?
3. If you plan to preserve part of your harvest, where will you store it?
4. What is your budget?

This last question is often overlooked, but it is very important because financial considerations will determine how much you can invest in seeds, transplants or other supplies. Honest answers to all of these questions will ensure you don’t get in over your head or become discouraged before you’ve had a chance to see results. Defining the amount of resources you have available upfront will allow you to set more achievable vegetable gardening goals.

Plus, it’s always easier to overcome a challenge once you clearly define it. Taking stock of your current situation can help you find creative solutions to potential challenges. For example, perhaps you can overcome a small budget by swapping seeds with neighboring gardeners or online communities. If you are short on growing space, maybe you can take advantage of unused vertical space along a sunny wall.

Define the End Results You’d Like to Achieve

Once you’ve developed a clear picture of what you have to work with, you can set realistic gardening goals. Make a list of the fruits, vegetables and herbs you use most in your cooking and highlight your most important “must-have” items. This will help you focus your resources on what matters most to you and will make it much easier if you decide to scale back your plans later.

As you can see, there are many benefits to setting vegetable gardening goals. Once you have a clear picture of what you’d like to get out of your vegetable garden, you’ll have a better idea of what you need, and what you can reasonably accomplish.


Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Dealing With & Preventing Frost Damaged Plants

As was terribly evident yesterday when I took a walk through my end-of-season garden, the appearance of wilting leaves, and leaves that have a water logged look can be a sign that your plant is suffering from frost damage. Another sign of frost damage can be the appearance of brown or purplish patches on the leaves.

Other signs are shown when the shoot tips on your plants start to die back. If the flowers on the plant don't open fully or they become discolored and then start to die off, then these are also signs that frost damage might have occurred.

Česky: Zmrzlá rostlina
Frost-damaged aloe vera plant. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
There is no treatment for frost damage other than to remove the damaged portions of the plant in an effort to make it look a little healthier. Provided the damage hasn't been too severe you might not lose the plant.

Sometimes frost damage is not noticeable for a few days after a frost has occurred and this is particularly so if the frost was a very light one.

The best way to protect against frost damage, or to reduce the effect that frost might have on your garden is to choose the best plants for your climate conditions. If you are living in an area that is susceptible to frosts then your best course of action is to choose plants that are frost-tolerant.

By planting in areas that are exposed or where frosts occur more frequently you will increase the chances of losing plants to frosts, so it is wise to plant in sheltered spots or areas other than where there are frost pockets.

In the early fall or late spring, you can offer some temporary protection to your plants by wrapping them in Hessian cloth or frost cloth until after the period of frost has passed.

This time of year though, the end of the road is inevitable for many of our summer garden plants. It's been a great season, and I hope you've enjoyed your gardening experiences this summer as well!
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Thursday, September 12, 2013

Video: Late Summer Garden Maintenance Tips

This quick video gives a few simple tips for keeping your summer garden looking its best into the fall months. This time of year, as things start to die down, hot sun and dry conditions can hasten the decline of your garden. Keeping things green and growing isn't hard though - you've just got to keep an eye on your garden and give it what it needs. Now is also a great time to clean out any dead plants and apply mulch or green manure for the fall and winter months.

End of Summer Garden Maintenance
Horticulturist Mitch Baker provides a few tips for keeping lawns and gardens looking fresh and green in the late weeks of summer.To View How-To Videos on Alm...


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Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Organic Gardening Tips For Late Summer And Fall

This article on organic gardening tips for the late summer and fall season will give you a checklist that you can use to make sure you are doing all that you need to do at this busy time of year. It's a crucial time in the vegetable garden in particular, because many crops are ready to harvest and need last minute attention to get the best from them. On the other hand, it is a time when most people have a lot of other activity in their lives - vacations, barbecues, sporting events, kids going off to school - and the garden is easily forgotten.

So what are the organic gardening tasks that we should be concentrating on at this time of year?

Gieter met broes (Watering can)
 (Watering can) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
First and most important, watering. In the fall you can begin to use less water on the garden, but in the dry weather of late summer, even if you only have a little time to spend on the garden, make sure that the watering is covered. This is something that is best done in the morning or evening rather than in the heat of the day, so it can be easily fitted in before or after your other activities.

If you are away on vacation, set up a timed sprinkler or ask neighbors to water for you. You could do the same for your neighbor another time, or consider hiring a local school or college student to do this, especially if you have containers or narrow raised beds, which dry out fast.

Second, if you have flowers such as roses or dahlias, keep on deadheading them by cutting off those that are past their prime. This will prolong their flowering season.

Harvest fruits and vegetables. This may seem so obvious that you don't even think about it, but sometimes we forget some plants until it is too late. If you have too much of something, freeze it, preserve it or give it away. Don't waste your summer's bounty!

You can also collect seeds from favorite plants and dry them, ready for planting later. Don't forget to label them!

This time of year is a good time to start thinking of next year too. It's not too early to feed the soil with green manures. In fact, this is a great time to do it, when the plants' demands on the soil are at their height.

Rabot-Blaisantvest2009 10 00 144
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)
In the fall you can plant bulbs for spring flowers. You can also plant spring lettuce, cabbage and other early vegetable crops that may be able to winter over and produce a welcome early crop next spring. You can begin to cut back perennials that have finished flowering, including pruning flowering trees and climbing roses. You may want to divide some perennials to produce more flowers next year.

If you have a lawn, be sure to keep it free of leaves. Any covering of leaves reduces light to the grass. If the leaves are left too long, that will weaken and even kill the grass. Finally, if you have a pond in your garden, put a net over it now to catch the falling leaves - and you can use them in your compost.

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Thursday, October 11, 2012

Video - Preparing Your Garden for Winter - The Sustainable Way

Typically when you think of getting your garden ready for winter, you might think of removing all dead plants and vegetation, cutting things back, and composting them. But this video describes a slightly different process used by organic and sustainable gardeners, which works with the cycle of nature to allow your garden to do what it naturally does over the winter - and actually turns out to be less work for you! She describes some things you should do for your garden in the fall, and other things you really don't need to.

Save yourself some work this fall, and let your garden do it for you!

*How To Prepare Garden For Winter The Eco Friendly Way*
There are simple things you can do this fall and winter to take care of your garden and yard in a responsible and eco-friendly way. These easy tips for going green, will allow you to follow organic and...

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Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Some Things You Don't Need to Do in a Fall Garden

If you've been reading this blog for a while, and gardening for some time, you may think you've learned everything there is to know about all the things you can do in your garden in the fall, to prepare both the soil and any remaining plants for the winter. You can seed, you can mulch, you can even plant some things now instead of waiting until the spring. You've got a whole big list. However, suddenly you realize that you've had a very long summer of constant gardening work and maybe, like the garden itself, you'd really, really like a break. So what are the things you can skimp on, without putting the garden in jeopardy?

English: Vegetable plot in winter The ground h...
Vegetable plot in winter. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
First of all, you don't actually have to remove all the dead plants if you don't want to. If you have any diseased plants, of course you don't have a choice with those. If you leave those there, they can break down and affect the soil, and give you some very big headaches in the spring. You also don't want to put any diseased plant material into the compost bin over the winter, because it will infect the entire batch of compost and spread disease to all the plants you use it on. Take diseased material and simply throw it away or burn it.

But something like annuals that have been healthy and are now fading away can be left out in your garden over the winter. First of all, they will maintain the appearance of having some vegetation still in the garden for a while. The remnants of ornamental grasses or hostas coming up out of the snow can be very attractive. And after they've broken down over the winter, most of the time you should be able just to turn them into the soil, and they will be one element of your spring compost.

You also don't need to mulch every remaining plant in your garden over the winter. Yes, if you have some that are a little delicate, you should definitely mulch those. The purpose of the mulch is to preserve moisture so the plants don't dry out in the winter air, and to keep an even temperature in the ground around them. So some plants will still need mulching, to give them some extra protection during the winter months. But for other more hardy plants, you can skip the mulching.

Garden Compost bin made of Bamboo canes.
Garden Compost bin made of Bamboo canes. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Something you should think twice about doing, although this won't necessarily save you work, is wrapping many of your plants in burlap. If you wrap your plants this way, you could actually end up trapping ice inside the burlap and against the surface of the plants. What many gardeners are now advising is that rather than wrapping in burlap to protect plants against things like cold winds, set up stakes all around each plant and wrap the burlap around the entire enclosure instead. This will serve the same purpose, but allow some breathing room for the limbs of the plants as well.

It's a lot of work preparing a garden in the spring as well as cleaning it up in the fall. It's true, of course, that whatever you leave undone in the autumn will have to be done in the spring instead, so you're not exactly saving yourself the work. However, it's also true that the spring arouses new energy, and people often feel much more ready to get a lot done. So if you're tired at the end of the growing season, and really just want to be done with it all, do just the absolutely necessary cleanup and let everything else go for the winter. Put your feet up, enjoy your well deserved rest, and start recharging your energies for a fresh start in spring.
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Thursday, October 4, 2012

Video - Putting Your Garden to Bed for the Winter

Sadly, it's time for many to say goodbye to our gardens and put them to bed for the winter (unless you're practicing winter gardening, which I'll have more info for you on soon!). This quick video offers some tips for cleaning up your fall garden, and protecting perennial plants so they survive the winter well and come back strong in the spring.

How to Prepare a Garden for Winter
Lowe's shows you how to clean up your fall garden so that it looks attractive all winter. Also learn how to protect your plants so they weather the winter and come back happy and healthy in the spring. At the end of autumn or after frost, you need to...


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Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Autumn Protection for Your Perennial Plants

As your garden comes to the end of its active growth and enters the fall season, you face a big cleanup to get things ready for planting when the weather warms up again. And probably even more important than that, some of your existing perennial plants will need to be protected through the winter and prepared for their new growing season in the spring. In fact, making the preparations that will protect your plants and help them survive until the following spring is absolutely paramount. You can combine this with cleaning up the rest of the garden, but if you do nothing else, at least you must get your more sensitive plants ready to survive the winter.

A cycad plant in Wuhan with its leaves tied fo...
A cycad plant with its leaves tied for some protection in winter. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Some of your small evergreens, for example, should be wrapped in burlap. Cedars and junipers, dwarf conifers, and other evergreens that are cold sensitive, like holly, need protection from the cold wind and potentially glaring sun of winter. The evergreens that stand upright can have their branches tied together with plastic netting, to make sure they don't break off if there's a lot of snow. The netting will provide this security but still give the plant some room to breathe. Remember also that evergreens need a very good watering just before the winter, because the dry air of winter can dehydrate them.

Roses, too, need to be guarded against the cold weather. They should have any remaining foliage stripped off, and all organic material removed from the soil around them. If they are tall bushes, their main canes should be cut back to perhaps two or three feet in height, and should be tied together in a bundle. These plants, too, can be wrapped in burlap, though in somewhat warmer climates, it might be enough just to add about eight to twelve inches of extra soil or compost around the base of the bush, depending how tall the plant is.

In very cold growing zones, climbing roses and other tender varieties are given even more protection, by being buried right in the ground. They are cut back and bundled as other roses are, with an extra length of twine loose at the top, and then a trench is dug in the soil beside the plants. It is loosened and the bush is gently tipped over until it's lying in the trench, which is then carefully filled in with the previously removed soil, leaving the loose twine exposed so the bush can be found again in the spring. After the soil is well watered, a foot-thick layer of leaves (or a bag full of leaves) is placed on the spot. This keeps the roses protected until April, when the leaves are removed and the plant is retrieved.

evergreen perennials in a shade garden under w...
Mulched evergreen perennials in a shade garden. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
More general protection of plants that you need to overwinter in the garden can be provided by mulching. Put a layer about two inches thick around trees and shrubs, leaving perhaps an inch of clear space around the stems or trunks. Make the mulch from things like sawdust, peat moss, leaves, bark, or grass clippings. Once a month, through the winter, double check that there is moisture getting down to the soil underneath.

Of course it's important to get the garden cleaned up after a long summer of growing. However, it's even more important to make sure that the plants that will be with you again next summer are given a fighting chance for getting through the winter. Protect them properly, and when spring comes again, they'll be ready to serve as the basis for the new garden season.
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Thursday, September 27, 2012

Video - Fall Planting Tips

This quick video gives some good ideas for trees and plants that do well when planted in the fall. Trees actually do best when planted in the fall. The warm soil helps the roots get a good start, and they don't have to expend energy on foliage for several months, so they can put all their energy into getting a good root system established, which will help them withstand hot and dry conditions come next summer.

Fall Planting Tips
Expert Tom McNutt talks about what gardeners should plant during fall.

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Planting In Fall In Preparation for Spring

You may be aware that there are certain things you can plant in your garden in the autumn, in preparation for growing time in the spring. Very likely you know you should plant bulbs in the fall, and this is also the season for dividing and transplanting other things in the garden. You might know as well that you can plant many perennials at this time of year, so they are well established come springtime. However, perhaps you could use some tips for how to go about all these things, so everything is planted properly and all you need to do after that is wait for the spring reward.

A simple plant. Photo was shot by uploader.
 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
First of all, if there's anything you need to transplant out of the garden and move inside, now is the time to do it. So the perennials that should be potted indoors over the winter should be moved before the temperature goes too low. This would also be the time to thin out or transplant things that you want to give away or put somewhere else in the garden.

To plant bulbs, do it about six weeks before the ground freezes. Make sure the soil is well drained. As a rule of thumb, plant bulbs three times as deep as they are high, so a two inch bulb would go six inches deep, for example. Be sure the pointed end points upward or, if you can't be sure which would be considered the pointed end, plant the bulb sideways instead. When the bulb actually starts growing, it will pull the right end upward as it does.

When you plant perennials, make the hole about three times wider than the root ball of the plant, and just deep enough for the ball. If you're going to add something to help with root growth, now is when you do that. As you set the root ball into the hole, very gently try to loosen some of the roots on the outside. Hold it steady as you fill the soil back in, and tamp the soil fairly lightly. After a good watering, put a three- or four-inch layer of mulch over the soil, leaving a couple of inches of space clear around the stem of the plant. Keep watering, enough just to keep the soil most, until the ground freezes.

English: Wollemi Pine OK, so it's less than a ...
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)
If you're planting seeds rather than partly grown plants, you need to be sure the ground is prepared and tilled properly first. Then scatter the seeds over the area as evenly as possible. And again you'll want to keep the soil moist, to give them the best start you can before the frosts arrive.

Even a lawn grows better when it's started in the fall, so now would also be the time to work on that if it's in your plans. The cooler temperatures will give the grass time to get its roots firmly established, in this time when it's not being encouraged to produce a lot of foliage. You should either seed a lawn or lay down new sod eight weeks before the first killing frost, if not slightly sooner than that.

It's kind of encouraging to think that a great many of your plants might already be planted and ready to grow when the spring comes. You'll have enough work still to do when the weather gets warm, so it's good to know you can get some of this done before winter. If you plant properly and keep your plants or seeds secure through the winter, your garden could be half ready in the spring before you even do anything!
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