Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Growing Vegetables For Beginners

Growing vegetables for beginners is probably simpler than you think. Although there are some important rules that you need to follow, vegetables are like all other forms of life - they want to grow! So all you really need to do is make sure they have what they need and protect them from harm. Easy, right?

The first step in growing vegetables for beginners is to make a list of the vegetables that you want to grow and check that you have the right conditions for them. If you live in a temperate climate with relatively mild temperatures and sufficient rain, you can probably grow most of the best known veggies that are used in traditional cooking.

A small vegetable garden in May outside of Aus...
A small vegetable garden in May outside of Austin, Texas (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Some of the easiest vegetables to grow in your garden include: carrots and beets from the root vegetables category; beans; cucumbers and zucchini or squashes; and lettuce and radishes for salad. If you start out with these, you will have a good variety of vegetables for the dinner table. They also provide some variety in your gardening experience, because they grow in different ways.

You can add tomatoes if you have a good sunny spot for them but be warned, tomatoes are not as easy to grow successfully as you might think. They can be susceptible to disease, and they need a lot of water and sun. However, overall they are not too difficult, and vine-ripe tomatoes are well-worth the bit of extra effort!

The next step in growing vegetables for beginners is to plan your vegetable garden.   You can grow vegetables in your flowerbeds, of course. They do not necessarily need to be all together in one place. However, it is sometimes easier if they are in a particular spot. You will want this to be somewhere that gets sun, but is not too hot and dry; is well-drained, not boggy; is sheltered from strong winds; and is easily accessible for you to water the plants.

This last point is very important. Many people site their vegetable garden a long way from the house because the vegetables are not as attractive as flowers. But your vegetable crops will do much better if you can reach them easily, and especially if you see them all the time. 'Out of sight, out of mind', as they say!

If you are growing pole beans or other climbing vine-type vegetables, you will need to give them something to climb. Keep in mind that they will shade your other plants so you may want to have them on the north side of your vegetable patch. If your vegetable garden is bordered by a wall, of course you will want the tallest plants at the back, against the wall.

English: Multiple blossoms merged into one on ...
Blossoms on a tomato plant in a residential vegetable garden. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
You will need to prepare the soil by digging to clear out any weeds and then adding a good layer of compost. Then you can begin to plant. Check instructions on the seed packets for planting dates.

Some seeds are best not planted directly into the garden but germinated in seed trays indoors or in a greenhouse before being planted out as seedlings. This can take a couple of weeks, but it is worthwhile because you will not waste space on seeds that do not germinate or have plants growing too close together. You can choose the strongest-looking seedlings to put out in the garden, and space them properly, as well as giving them a head start if you have a short growing season.

Good luck with your garden planning! With these tips you should find that growing vegetables - even for beginners - is easy as well as fun.


Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Using A Garden Planner To Plan This Year's Vegetable Garden

This time of year, there's probably not much to do outside in your garden, but it is a great time of year to do some planning ahead! A garden planner is very helpful if you want to set up your vegetable garden in the most efficient and attractive way. You will be able to harvest many more delicious vegetables for your kitchen if you have taken some time to plan your garden before you start.

English: vegetable garden, detail Français : j...
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)
There is not a one-size-fits-all vegetable garden planner because every garden is a little different. Your soil type, climate and the amounts of sun, shade and shelter in your garden will all play a part in determining which are the best vegetables for you to grow and where to locate them in your garden. However, you can use the hints and tips in this article to construct your own vegetable garden planner.

If you are planting vegetables within a bigger garden that also contains flowering plants and trees, then you can simply pick a good place for each vegetable according to whether they like sun or shade, etc..

On the other hand, if you have a dedicated vegetable plot, there are some points to consider when you are deciding on its location, as well as the location of individual plants within it. Most vegetables like to have quite a bit of sunlight but not necessarily to be in constant full sun.

Many plants require a lot of water in order to grow big, healthy vegetable crops, so one principle of your vegetable garden planner might be to site your plot near to a faucet or water source. If you do not have a faucet near your garden, you could grow your vegetables in a place that can be reached by a hose from your kitchen window - or install a rain barrel or tank to collect rainwater that you can then use to water your garden in a more sustainable manner.

You can also consider companion planting. This is a system of planting vegetables beside others that are mutually supportive. It may seem weird that plants can support each other, but they do, usually by repelling certain pests. The best known example is the 'three sisters': squash, maize and climbing beans. There are many other examples too, such as the allium family (onions, garlic, leeks) with the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant), the brassica family (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower) and carrots.

Square foot gardening is a popular option for many new vegetable gardens. This usually involves raised or ground-level beds of 4 ft width, divided into one foot squares, with a different vegetable in each square. Depending on the size of the plant, some plants will need a whole square for each, and others will happily grow two, four or more to a square foot. Having the beds only 4 ft wide allows you to reach everything. If you want a bigger vegetable garden, it is best to create paths between beds so that you have good access to your plants for weeding, harvesting and other tasks.

Do not forget to rotate the vegetables in your garden. This is essential for preventing many diseases from becoming established. For example if you always grow tomatoes in the same place, the fungal and other diseases that tend to attack tomatoes will gradually gain in strength over the years until they become a real problem in that spot. By keeping track of where everything is planted in your vegetable garden planner each year, and moving crops from one spot to another every year, you can prevent this.

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

A Review of the Steps to Successful Composting

The hot composting method (also known as fast or active composting) is the most common as it yields desired results relatively quickly.  It is also the best method to take care of unwanted weeds as it will destroy the seeds during the heat phase.

After you have picked a level site for your composting bin, you will need a good base for the bottom made of leaves and high-quality soil.  The leaves should be chopped or chipped so that no one piece is larger than two-three inches (this is a good rule of thumb for all materials added to the bin).

English: Materials in a compost bin.
Materials in a compost bin. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Once your bin and base are in place you can start to add your green food (nitrogen-rich) and your brown food (carbon-rich).  The ratio that should be roughly followed is one part green for every two parts brown.

Monitor the pile every other day for moisture control and temperature.  During this time you need to rotate or turn the pile to get good air flow inside the pile and to help with odors. 

Once your pile is full or has finished the heat phase, let it cure.  The length of curing will depend on your intended use of the finished product.  To eliminate any larger pieces of organic matter that did not break down use a screen to sift them out.  But if you follow the rule of not putting in anything that is larger than three inches this should not happen too often.

A compost humus can be ready to use in as little as 4-6 weeks in a warm climate with a hot composting method and maintenance to the pile on a regular schedule.  If you are going to use the cold (or inactive) method of composting, it can take up to one year for usable compost to be ready.

Hopefully you've gained some useful tips to help you get started with composting! Be sure to stay tuned to this blog for more helpful compost and gardening tips in 2015!


Wednesday, December 24, 2014

Ongoing Care for Your Compost Pile

Unless you are using a cold composting method, your compost pile is going to need regular care and maintenance.  You need to monitor it for any foul odors, heat generation, and moisture levels.  You will need to rotate or turn the material on a regular basis.  You should know when to stop adding materials and let the process finish.  And the final step is to use a screen to separate any larger materials that did not fully break down.

English: Turning a hot compost pile
Turning a large hot compost pile (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
If there is a bad smell coming from your compost pile turn the pile over more frequently to increase air circulation.  You should also add more brown food (leaves, straw/hay, or small twigs) and make sure the top layer of your pile is only brown food.

You will learn the trick of adding water to your pile to make it moist without making to wet with some trial and error.  Inevitably you will make the pile too wet at one point during the process.  If you do, try rotating the material to soak up any extra water and if that doesn’t work, add more brown food.

You can purchase a thermometer that is made especially for composting.  You want the pile to retain a certain temperature to work properly (105-140 degrees Fahrenheit) but if it exceeds 155 degrees, it is too hot.

Routine turning of your pile is necessary to add oxygen, cut-down on odors and to aid in the breaking-down process.  You should turn your pile every other day or at a minimum two times per week.

After the heat phase, the compost pile needs some time to cure and finish the decomposing process.  You can add red earthworms at this point to aid in the curing the humus.

Before you use your finished product, you should put the compost through a screen to catch any larger items that did not compost properly or enough. You can add those to your next compost pile to add beneficial organisms and help start the composting process.


Wednesday, December 17, 2014

What Not To Compost

There are many things you can use to make a good compost humus (which is what the final product is called).  There are also quite a few items that should never go into your compost bin.  Listed below are just some of the materials you should not try to compost, and why it is not a good idea.

Ashes from charcoal should not be added to your compost, although you can add very small amounts of ashes from a fire that was made with untreated wood.  It is not a good idea to add a lot though because it can change the composition and make it too alkaline.

a cat and a Litter box
Don't add cat litter to your compost! (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Do not add any kind of droppings from an animal that is not a vegetarian.  Animals that pass the compost inspection include horses, cows, rabbits, and goats.  You can even add droppings from hamster or other indoor pets.  But stay away from bird, dog, and cat droppings (including cat litter).  They all can contain harmful organisms - plus they will make your compost smell bad.

Any type of animal waste such as leftover meat, oil, bones, or fish waste are off-limits. They all can cause your pile to smell badly and can attract unwanted pests.

Milk, yogurt, cheese, or any other milk product should be added with caution.  They all will attract animals and pests.  If you do decide to add them, do so in small amounts and cover them with plenty of brown materials afterwards.

You can add weeds, but you should take care to ensure your composting is functioning properly.  If your compost is not generating enough heat the roots may not be destroyed and the weeds may grow again once you spread your compost.  You can dry your weeds on a sidewalk or on some concrete in the sun before adding to the pile as an added precaution to make sure they do not survive.

These are just a few items you should not compost - or should use caution when composting. Following these tips will minimize composting problems, and help make sure your composting efforts are a success!

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Composting Precautions To Consider

There are living creatures that you want in your compost bin such as microbes and red earthworms, and then there are the creatures you want to stay away like raccoons, rodents, and bears.  A compost bin can be very appealing to an animal who smells easy access to food.  As a rule, you should never put animal products into compost (left over meat and bones, or dairy). Not only do they not make for good composting they will be a magnet to wild animals.  Following are a few more tips to help keep your compost bin free from pests of all sizes.

Compost Bin
Compost Bin with Lid (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
An odor-free compost bin is less likely to attract bears or any other unwanted animal pests.  You can achieve this by rotating or turning the compost pile at least once per week, and making sure you have a good mixture of green and brown materials.  Another precaution that should be taken is to have a bin with a cover, whether it is commercially made or one you make yourself.

Another thing you can do is to put brown food such as leaves or lawn clippings on top of the green food (food scraps and other kitchen waste).  You can also purchase lime at your local nursery or hardware store to sprinkle on the top of your composting materials to increase the rate at which everything decomposes.

The location of your compost heap should not be near the edge of your property - especially if you live near a forest or park area.  This makes it very easy for animals to help themselves without being exposed by walking through your backyard.

If bears or raccoons are a big concern in your community you may want to look into a neighborhood compost pile.  In addition to making composting more accessible to a larger group of people, you can invest in an electric or barbed wire fence to ensure no unwanted animals come looking for a free lunch.

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Materials You Need to Start Composting

Now that you have decided that you want to compost, there are a few items that you will need to get started.  Most of these items are available in your own yard and require a small amount of planning ahead of time.

After you pick a location for your compost bin or pile (ensure it is in an easily accessible location) you may want to start with approximately four inches of leaves as a base.  If you are able to chip the leaves prior it will make things progress and breakdown faster but it is not a requirement.  The quantity of leaves you will need to make a four-inch deep base will vary depending on the size of the bin you have chosen.

Yard waste composting bin
Yard waste composting bin (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Your next layer should be about one inch of high-quality soil.  If you cannot find this in your own garden a small bag of organic soil purchased from your local nursery will work fine. 

Then start layering the food for the microbes to eat.  There are two categories of food you are going to need brown (yard waste or dry items such as straw) and green (food scraps, grass clippings, and other organic waste).  A common ratio is two parts brown for every part of green, but it doesn't have to be terribly exact.

You are going to need a spade or heavy-duty pitch fork to turn or rotate the compost at least once per week.  If there is a dry spell you will need a means of adding water (a hose) to keep the pile moist.

With such simple materials and start-up instructions, anyone can start their own compost pile in under a day.  If you choose to not use a bin, consider buying some wire mesh to contain the pile, it can be wrapped around the base of the pile in a circular shape. You may also create a square or rectangular bin by stacking logs or pieces of wood or bamboo to create the sides - or build a bin from wood planks if you want something more durable and enclosed.

Your compost can be ready to use anywhere from four months up to one year, depending on the climate and weather conditions.